At the Tan Tan Moussem specifically, the air is filled with the smell of roasting camel and the smoke of the tbourida charges. Among the tent camps of tens of different tribes from southern Morocco and beyond, teams from each tribe compete to perform the best cavalry charge, where only a gunshot in unison should be heard and all horses aligned beside each other. Throughout the days as well, camel races are held in large circuits around the camp, where a trail of beat up Mercedes sedans and ancient French hatchbacks full of people follow alongside the race cheering on their favorite riders (who are usually the lightest young kids)!
Back in the tents themselves, visitors are whisked away to see tribal showcases of traditions including poetry and music, as well as a chat over some extremely strong, sweet tea. Across Morocco, but especially amongst the Hassaniya (حسانية) tribal groups at the moussem, hospitality is as serious as religion. I don't think I could even attempt to count the number of tea glasses I had throughout the moussem!
The Tan Tan Moussem began as a more recent event for Saharan/Hassaniya groups to celebrate their culture, as well as trade during the harvest season. Moussems and tribal gatherings have always been held in Morocco, however, in 1963 the first edition was held as a way to honor anticolonial fighter Mohamed Laghdaf (محمد لغظف) at the height of decolonization and Morocco's new independence. Indeed even today the festival still begins with a visit to his nearby tomb.
