As the year drew closer and closer to this momentous tradition, the country began to buzz with catrinas and calaveras (human skull replicas), pan de muerto (a delicious bread made only during this special occasion) and a flurry of events that conveyed the deep cultural significance of the holiday. Amidst all of this excitement, I received a special invitation from Carmen, one of my students, to share a “pib” (the traditional tamale of Hanal Pixán) with her and her family! This was an extremely exciting invitation since one of the most anxiously awaited traditions in the Yucatán is the moment when it is time to eat the “pibes” (mayan for “buried chicken”). This dish is only prepared at this time of year in almost every home in Yucatán. It’s an essential food placed on the altars for relatives who have passed away. The traditional cooking method consists of making a hole in the ground and placing stones and wood at the bottom. As soon as the stones and wood are hot, they cook the “pib” covered with banana leaves and earth. After two hours it is ready, and it is unearthed and placed on the altar. Once the prayers are finished and the deceased have enjoyed its essence and aroma, the living family can eat it. This underground method of cooking is still used in small towns. The taste of the “pib” cooked underground is completely unique and absolutely delicious!
I had never participated in Dia de Muertos or Hanal Pixán prior to living in Mexico. The openness of Carmen’s family and other people throughout Mexico in sharing their traditions with me made me feel truly welcomed and grateful to be here. I not only was able to taste delicious food and watch beautiful cultural dances and shows that paid homage to tradition, but I also learned a different perspective.
